Hyderbad, Hunza Valley:
Just a few miles back down the road from Karimabad is the village of Hyderbad.
This is a Shiite Muslim town and the Ashura 'Festival' occurred while we were
near.
Left: A Shia imam preaches to the outdoor crowd via a microphone.
Right: Hyderbad men prostrated to pray; Rakaposhi Mtn. behind.
Hyderbad:
In fact, the festival occurred in the middle of the Karakoram Highway, and all
traffic was stopped for the day. We had to walk.
Left: Men sitting, listening to the Imam. Black flag of the Shias.
Right: Men stripped to the waist for the procession.
Hyderbad:
In fact, we were discouraged from going, as this festival sometimes erupts
into violence. It 'celebrates' the death of Hussaini -- grandson of Mohammed
and founder of the Shiite (Shia) sect -- and others at Karbala.
Left: Young fanatic participants prepare to flail themselves in grief.
Right: Traditional riderless horse of Hussaini (they couldn't find
a white one).
Hyderbad:
The fact that Hussaini was killed by the rival Suni sect is the reason this
observance often erupts into violence in larger cities.
Left: And the grieving begins. (Veiled foreign woman at left).
Right: Men flail themselves with knife blades attached to
chains (called zanjirs); a few visiting foreigners look on.
Hyderbad:
Ashura
occurs on the 10th day of Moharram (Jan 18, 2008; Jan 7, 2009; Dec 27, 2009;
Dec 16, 2010). The Ismaili Hunzakuts will have
nothing to do with this festival and discouraged us from going.
Left: Looking down on the men on the highway from above.
Right: A bit closer... this is not pleasant.
[Close-up]
Hyderbad:
Clearly these believers get themselves pretty worked up.
Left: The women and children line up on the opposite bank to watch.
Right: The men are chanting and shouting as the village looks on.
Hyderbad:
Left: A distant scene of the procession as it leaves town; Ultar Mtn. in back.
[Larger].
Right: Close-up of one man's back following the flailing. [Note that
Hussaini is also spelled Husayn, Hussain, etc]
Hyderbad:
After the procession there was more orating from the imam.
Left: Close-up of another man's back.
Right: The procession wends it way a mile or two down the Karakoram
Highway, with the Rakaposhi in the background.
Hyderbad:
Forty days after Ashura, the feast of 'Al-Arbaeen' commemorates
the end of the mourning period for Hussaini.
Left: Finally, as clouds gather, a view up toward the Ultar Mtn. near an
attractive house on the outskirts of Hyderbad.
[Close-up].